If you’ve been scrolling through photos from the menswear shows in Milan, you might find yourself all laughed out at the parade of models showcasing what can only be described as predictable student collections. Seriously, it feels like we’re trapped in a cycle of the same old schtick, blouses, dresses, and an overwhelming number of male models in skirts. Can we just pause for a second? Is it compulsory for all fashion students to put together a collection where men are made miserable and forced to stomp the runway in rough cut, draped garments instead of channeling something authentically masculine?

Fashion is supposed to inspire, to challenge and to excite, but let’s be real for a second. The novelty of seeing men in skirts has worn off quicker than I can say “fuhgeddaboudit” Fashionistas will say “Over the past few seasons, there has been a rise in gender-fluid styles dominating the runways”, but that’s not true, it’s been a thing on constant rotation since way back in the ’70s. The blind leading the blind will also most likely say that each collection “aims to break boundaries and redefine masculinity”. Doh!

Looking back at the weeks offerings from Milan, it seems like the pendulum is swinging back in the opposite direction. Goodbye, gender fluidity; the new guy on the Milan catwalk is unashamedly and swaggeringly masculine.

@dolcegabbana THE PORTRAIT OF MAN

Rediscovering the Alpha Male Aesthetic

Take a look at Dolce & Gabbana and their unapologetic re-embrace of the alpha male aesthetic. After what felt like an eternity of androgyny and soft silhouettes, these designers have made it crystal clear that they’re in the game to revive the rugged, masculine vibes. The brand’s latest collection features sharp tailoring, luxury leathers, and a colour palette that leans heavily on deep, heroic hues. This isn’t just a passing trend for them; it’s a return to roots, an embrace of what makes a man feel strong and confident.

Their runway echoed with statements of power, masculinity, and dominance. As they strutted down the aisle, the models looked as though they were ready to take on anything the world threw at them, dressed to the nines, powerful, and undeniably fierce. As noted by industry insiders, “Dolce & Gabbana is crystallizing masculinity in an era where it risks being diluted.” (Source: Business of Fashion)

What’s especially refreshing about this collection is not only the nod to traditional masculinity but also how it embraces the modern man. It captures the essence of what it means to be a man today, strong yet sensitive, aware yet bold. If there was any doubt that these designer legends could make waves, they’ve certainly washed away the earlier seasons’ serene tides.

Zegna’s New Approach

Not to be outdone, Zegna also made it clear that the alpha male is back with a vengeance. Their collection distinguished itself with an innovative approach to traditional menswear. Think classic suits revamped with unexpected twists: oversized jackets that practically scream confidence and accessories that complement rather than compete with the outfit.

Zegna’s creative director, Alessandro Sartori, spoke to the shifting dynamics of modern masculinity, making it clear that this season, men are set to reclaim their sartorial strength. “It’s about rediscovering the essence of what made menswear great while integrating new elements,” said Sartori in an interview (Source: Vogue). This perspective has drawn attention for embracing a storied traditional style that resonates not just with those who want to dress up for work but with men who want to feel powerful in everyday life.

The Ralph Lauren Resurgence

Ralph Lauren has also jumped on the masculine resurgence bandwagon, presenting a collection that speaks to the heart of Americana while maintaining that sophisticated edge. The blend of rugged and refined, especially in the curated outerwear selections, tells a compelling story, one of nostalgia rooted in strength. Coupled with bold hues, structured shapes, and an essence that feels like a gentle nudge toward a modern classic, Lauren’s pieces resonate powerfully with the audience.

At the heart of Ralph Lauren’s collection lies an appreciation for tradition without being shackled to it. In the words of Lauren himself, “The clothes are supposed to make you feel powerful because they reflect the character of the man wearing them” (Source: Harper’s Bazaar). This philosophy reinforces the move toward masculinity while allowing each individual to express their style uniquely.

Men’s Fashion: Forward or Backward?

As Milan Fashion Week unfolded, it became increasingly clear: we are witnessing a dramatic shift in menswear. And while it’s easy to get tangled in the debate of whether this return to masculinity is regression or progression, there’s no doubt that it’s creating an undeniable buzz. Designers are acknowledging that some men crave that classic, strong aesthetic, not only in their personal style but also in the clothes that empower them.

But is it a simple case of nostalgia, or are we witnessing the evolution of masculinity? On the one hand, we see the abundance of bold colors, rugged fabrics, and structured designs dominating the scene. On the other, it creates a tension with everything we’ve come to understand about fashion breaking barriers and developing fluid identities. Is it a return to the old ways, or a celebration of a new chapter in what masculinity can mean?

The Cultural Commentary

Ultimately, the discussions prompted by Milan’s showcases are fascinating and essential. As these designers flock back to the alpha male ethos, it raises questions not merely about fashion but about society and identity. What does it mean to dress like a man today? If cruelty and confusion have been the standard fare of male fashion recently, perhaps this migration to confidence and strength can be seen as a reaction, a cultural commentary for men seeking affirmation in their identities.

Many observers argue that there is room within the broader fashion dialogue for all these interpretations of masculinity. It’s not necessarily a battle of one aesthetic against another but rather a reminder that fashion is an expansive realm. Designers are merely contributing their voices to the conversation; it’s up to us as the audience to decipher the meaning behind their choices.

The Future of Menswear

As we navigate what is clearly an exciting time for menswear, the questions abound: Will these collections pave the way for a new era of menswear that prioritises masculinity over fluidity, or is it simply a fleeting moment, a nostalgic echo that will soon fade? One thing is for certain, though, the landscape is ripe for change, and the Milan shows have invigorated the spirit of male creativity.

While the skirts may still fall, the return to dapper suits and robust silhouettes marks a shift in the tone of menswear, one that champions undeniable strength and individuality. Whatever the path ahead looks like, let’s hope it’s one where the idea of man is multifaceted, varied, and above all, unapologetically stylish.

It’s going to be exciting to see how designers like Dolce & Gabbana, Zegna, and Ralph Lauren continue to deepen their exploration of masculinity in the coming seasons, especially as the fashion narrative further evolves, change is always on the horizon. Here’s to the continuing transformation in menswear and to the fearless men who wear it, with confidence, attitude, and style that represents the very essence of who they are.

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